Underpinnings, c. 1770s

Stays in pink cotton twill, partially boned. Channels were machine sewn, but cotton binding made and applied by hand, and eyelets done in silk buttonhole twist by hand as well. From the 1776 "Diderot" stays pattern in "Corsets and Crinolines." Thanks to Suzi C. for helping me with this project by sending me an enlarged pattern which even had the areas marked where I might (and did!) need to take in. Bustle pad in cotton, handsewn with cotton thread, using my own pattern. Two underpetticoats, one in cotton and one in linen. The cotton is the lower most layer, and is handsewn with cotton thread, with the upper edge pleated and encased in a waistband, and closing at the back with ties. The linen petticoat goes over the bustle pad, and is pleated to cotton twill tape, and ties at the sides. Shift in cotton, handsewn with cotton thread, from Kannik's Korner #6102, but with the neckline modified.
Dress Diary
9/4/04
My first attempt at an 18th century shift with the Kannik's Korner pattern turned out very well, with the exception that the neckline was too high for any of my 18c garments. The pattern does tell you it's a good idea to check it against your garments, but of course I am terrible at following patterns exactly so I completely missed that step. I decided to make a new shift, this time using 100% cotton (should be linen for this era, but I'll spring for lovely handkerchief linen the next time!), cutting the neckline much lower. I also decided to put a drawstring in the neckline.
   
6/27/05
I still wasn't perfectly happy with any of the bustle pads in my growing collection, so decided to try once more, this time, making up my own pattern, and using a fun striped fabric. . . And, it worked!
   
2/5/07
I've been daydreaming about pretty new stays - this time with straps - for so long now, and I'm so excited to be nearing starting on them. The other day I picked out a fabric, and actually, it was due to arrive today, but in typical UPS fashion, it did not, and probably won't for several more days while UPS tries for the billionth time to figure out how to deliver a package! (For once, I'm not sweating it because I have yet to accomplish enlarging the pattern so can't start on the stays right now anyhow!) At any rate. The fabric is pink cotton twill. What I really wanted was duck (like my old stays), and I had found the perfect stuff in a seafoam green color from Denver Fabrics, but they sold out of it while I was debating between the green or peach. Oh well, wasn't meant to be! And let's just say I didn't need my arm twisted to choose pink instead. ;)
2/25/07
Well, I managed to get all the pieces together, but my machine decided it needed a break, and so the feed teeth quit on me. Sadly, this happened just before I started the boning channels, so I'm stuck until it gets back from the shop! So for now, I share an image of all the pieces together and the boning locations marked. . .
3/20/07
All the major sewing is now complete. I still need to deal with boning and binding, but for right now, I'm working on eyelets. One down. . . Eighty billion or so to go!
4/21/07
Well, the eyelets have been done for a while, and I've had one fitting which terrified me because it appears that the stays may possibly be too big, but I had to be able to cut tabs in order to double check that. So, last night I had myself a sewing marathon and finished binding the bottom edge of my stays. Now I can try them on again, and hope they will fit! *crosses fingers*
   
4/28/07
I seriously thought for a while there that the stays were going to be too big, but I finally tried them on today and they're okay! I don't have them perfectly laced in these pictures (and in fact, they might even be a bit too tight) but you get the idea.
   
So now I just have to figure out how much to trim down the strap area, and where to place eyelets. Hmm. . . And then bind it, and it's done! Yay!
5/20/07
At long last! Yesterday I went crazy and bound the entire top of the stays, and today I made the final four eyelets. Go me! So, they're done. . . But are slightly "off" as far as fit. The bad news is that - they don't totally fit. The good news is that I know exactly where the pattern needs adjusting to make it fit. Anyhow. Here are my stays! (And sorry for the yellow pictures - It's rainy here in New England, and I was too impatient to wait for a sunny day to take and post pictures!)
   
6/25/07
I wasn't completely content with the stays. They were a bit too big. So. . . I started over! Here is where I'm at right now. . . Which is almost done!
7/4/07
I just finished the replacement stays this morning, and I love them! I do think I need to find a source for sturdier metal boning for the center back channels, and I also noticed one piece of boning poking me in the arm uncomfortably which needs to be dealt with. Other than that - they're just what I wanted! Yay!
   
7/4/07
A few years ago, I had made a pair of underpetticoats for use with my 18c costumes. Just recently, I finally put the finishing touches on the bottom-most layer (I am notoriously bad at finishing things - I get to like 90% and then am distracted by something else!) and made a replacement second-layer as I wasn't quite happy with my original one (which was of a thin fabric, and had a bulky waistband).

Here is my bottom-layer underpetticoat, made back in 2004 but just got its finishing touches a few weeks ago:
Next, we have the original second layer underpetticoat. I was really happy with it, except that the waistband was bulky and the fabric wasn't as heavy/stiff as I would have liked. This one was made in 2005.
   
Finally, we have the most recent petticoat, which was just made last month, and replaces the pink petticoat. This one is in linen, and has a different waistband treatment which is much less bulky. I didn't like working with the linen at all, but now that it's done, I'm quite happy with the results! (Sorry for the horrible picture, I'll get a better one soon!)
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